There are a lot of different types of resin to choose from, from different colour versions of standard formulas to ceramic infused engineering resin costing $200 per litre.

I experiment a bit, but generally I just use standard grey resin – I am making display models after all, not working components, and I don’t want to pass on needless expense. I do however sometimes use clear resin to make clear parts.

This is more controversial than you might think. You see, clear 3d printed parts aren’t actually all that clear. At a molecular level the material is transparent – but the surface has a texture, so it reflects light and won’t allow you to see through:

I also produce vacuum formed clear parts. These are much clearer, and I know some people prefer them, however I think there is a time and a place for both.

Any 3d printed clear part need to be sanded, polished and lacquered:

This is relatively easy for a small side window, much harder for a windshield with lots of compound curves. So, for side windows I tend to use 3d printing (easy to prep and hopefully a simple push fit once you are finished), for windshields I use vacforming (no sanding and much easier to cut out than small windows).

Transparent glues such as Kristal Klear or Glue ‘n Glaze will also be a help for less experienced modellers, either as an easily applied coating for 3d printed clear parts or to replace them entirely.

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